light pollution is one thing, but in the city the seeing and transparency is the killer. without a tranquil atmosphere, you don't have a chance to really make the best from the telescope. also one of the most common errors is that people go for the highest magnification possible. They forget that you do not magnify the moon alone but also everything between. most of the time it's best to settle for a middle magnification, resulting in smaller, but hell of a lot more crisp image.
You might try this software [link] . it has a great sharpening filter and it can create quite good images from an avi. That is that you record a movie from the moon or planet through your optic , or make a whole bunch of pictures. the software then can generate a sharp picture because it takes only the most sharp images and merges them.
Looking at your profile I see that you also have a Canon non-full-frame camera. That means that the 300mm will work as a ~480mm lens.
0. shoot from a dark location and a night with no star twinkling. That gives you a dark background and no atmosphere smear.
1. use a tripod
2. use a remote/wire shutter release
3. use the pre-mirror release if you have one
4. turn of the image-stabilizer
5. open the aperture - the moon does not have a DOF
6. use the shortest possible exposure to get a medium exposed shot. better slightly under expose
7. shoot RAW files
8. create at least 3 TIFF Files with different EV corrections. (export as 16bit color depth) . also try to use "neutral" settings in the raw converter. No adjusting of brightness,contrast,gradiation curves, sharpnes, etc. you might though want to use the "black" adjustment to get a deep black background.
9. put the files through the HDR generator of your choice.
10. then in the graphic-editor of your choice work on the histogram levels to get a nice dark background and near white highlights. Then work on the gradation curves to darken the mares and accentuate the rays without blowing the highlights. you might also have to overpaint a possible halo that comes through the HDR process.
11. do an unsharp mask. the levels I used are a close call before overdoing it. do less and it does not give you that nice accentuated crater landscape - do to much and it goes up in a pixel noise.
wow... thank you for such a detailed tutorial... I just so happen to know how to do all of that as well.. lucky for me lol. I will give it a shot next time i am shooting the moon! and will let you know the results. Your moon shots are beautiful! btw what is the difference between a full frame and non? are there pros to having a full frame? like a 20 or 30d?
@Full-Frame or not: If I remember right, the Canon 1D and 5D are the only full-frame body Canon produces. 400D,20D,30D,40D all have a non full-frame chip.
Full-Frame means that the image chip has the same size as a traditional film negative. Having a smaller chip results in the so-named "crop-factor" which is always bigger than 1. e.g. the 400D has a 1.6 factor. With this factor you multiply the focal length of the lens to get the effective length. For example a 300mm lens acts like a 480mm lens on a 400D.
The pros of a full frame body is that the lenses act like they did in analog photography. a 50mm stays a 50mm. so if you already have a large array of primes and zooms from the good-old-days, a full frame body might be the thing for you. Unfortunately they cost a LOT of money.
I use the 400D (its called the rebel xti in the US I guess). It cost 50% of the 40D and has the nearly the same gadgets. They even took stuff from the 400D and used it in the 40D. Okay the shutter wont last as long as, but for that price I can buy two 400D. So what..
that could be just "bad-talk" since I didn't find any figures about that kind of stuff on any canon website. My wife likes the 400D/350 for their smaller body. The 30D/40D is too big for her small hands.
Yes with a steady hand you can do that! Congratulation!.
When shooting the moon, the key is to be as fast as possible. The longer the exposer the more time the moons movement and the turbulences of the earth atmosphere have to smear the picture. But being fast does not mean go with the highest ISO value - those only will get you noise. Since the moon has no DOF, open the lens as big as possible. Also shoot in RAW format, that will allow you to underexpose a little since you can correct that in the raw-converter easily. Underexposed is much better than overexposed! And to make a HDR from a single picture. Also forget the internal exposure evaluation - go manual and make a lot of shots with different exposure times till you hit the right one.
thanks. i do not really have a steady hand, so i think i was lucky. i hate using high iso, even 400 gets too much noise. but i remembered that moon actually reflects a lot of sunlight esp when full so i did not need long exposure. and i always shoot in raw since i got me an SLR
i wanted to study photography, but i had no camera...i could only afford it now, after 11 years of work and prices becoming affordable. but nature protection is also a great job, i love it and i get lots of photo opportunities
yea, priced went down a lot. I bought my 400D this year and used my christmas gratification to buy the Canon 70-300. But at least I can use it on any eos should I upgrade at some time to the 40D or 50D, 60D whatever will be the actual one at that time.
Nature protection...that really sounds like a lot of opportunities for wildlife and nature pics.
timer simply uses too much time..... <un intended> off course if you are lucky to have a 2sec time... but 10 sec like the 400D takes too long. shooting hdr's you want the pictures in fast succession.